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Saturday morning on Lake Zurich. Families sitting in bleached yachts set off for the day, boats laden with rose and picnic baskets. The experience could only get more Swiss if somebody coated my paddleboard in chocolate. From June to September, he spends his time on the lake or paddleboarding through the old town on a sightseeing tour from the water.
How many other cities in Europe can go from boardroom to bathing suit in just a few short minutes? The city has around 40 of these badis set up on the Limmat, as well as on stretches of Lake Zurich, a thin finger of a lake that extends south into the wider canton. Fast forward to the 19th century and this Swiss city started building badis in earnest, because it was cheaper to provide public facilities than individual facilities.
Many of them still exist today. I start with a post-paddleboard splash at Strandbad Wollishofen, a laidback, family-friendly bath with a high-diving platform in one of the pools on Lake Zurich. On the other half of the river not sectioned off for swimming, groups of friends drift leisurely downstream in dinghies weighed down by beer. A lazy Saturday afternoon spent in the Frauenbad spills easily into an evening at forest-green badi Rimini Bar, a tropical-in-feel party palace laid out with wooden benches, vintage striped beach huts and waterside decks spread with printed cushions that groups of friends are quietly busking on.
An Aperol Spritz, you say? Almost directly opposite is Seebad Utoquai, a sprawling double-decker white clapboard badi with sections for women, men and mixed bathing and steps directly down into the lake and a floating pontoon. People have brought speakers, some are drinking plastic cupfuls of cocktail from the bar downstairs and most people are baking in the sun like biscuits.